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Tuesday
Jul212026

Preah Khan, Clean Water, Burma

Ta Som is a compact temple with a laterite enclosed wall and well preserved gopuras or entrance buildings. The feeling is intimate. I wander quiet and peaceful. I evaporate into deep meditative silence. Birds sing through shadow light. Pure magic.

Preah Khan, constructed in 1191, is wonderful. Inscriptions refer to a lake of blood and a story about a battle when the Khmer killed the Cham king and expelled them.

 

 

It is one of the largest and most lightly visited temples at Angkor. It is a fusion temple with Mahayana Buddhism featuring equally sized doors and cardinal directions.

The Hindu deities, Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma are present. Receding smaller doors emphasize unequal nature.

It was a religious university with 1,000 Buddhist monks in the 12th century. It has four long main corridors, a central shrine, ancient columns, libraries, hidden mazes, delightful light play and detailed Apsara dancer carvings.

I am a dust collector, like Tran. I wander with ancient stone stories where people created life.

Sacrifice. Prayer. Art. Celebration. Ceremony.

The carved dancers are transported by inner visions.

They perceive beauty and serene wisdom.

The nature of the process is the process of the nature.

The unconscious is integrated into your life.

 

 

*

A team of Australian nurses had a medical briefing at Jasmine. The head nurse asked them for the biggest problem they’ve seen in Siem Reap communities the last two weeks.

“It’s dehydration. It’s the loss of electrolytes (salt). Malnutrition is also a concern.”

They discussed primary concerns and physiological assessments. They talked about signs and symptoms. They discussed their progress helping and educating people. They returned to villages. 

One billion people on Earth do not have access to clean water. This is an unpleasant fact.

 

 

*

Three middle-aged Americans and two 28-year-old girls arrive at Jasmine. They sit on soft cushions. One is the man’s niece. The girls just arrived from a horrendous long bus ride from Bangkok.

The man is soft spoken. He’s an Asian tour guide. He reminds me of Robert Thurman, the Tibetan scholar. His wife is an attorney in Portland, Oregon and originally from Michigan.

She deals with suits. No one at breakfast is wearing a suit. I know her job because of the way she cross-examines the two girls.

An older woman with regal bearing is with them. She is patient, kind and asks intelligent questions. She lives in Eugene, Oregon with one of the girls.

The older woman grew up in Eugene, attended Portland State College and loved Italian. She moved to Rome for six years. She came back and got her M.A. in Italian and Foreign Languages at the University of Oregon. She taught Italian until retiring.

The attorney said, “I was only able to get away for two weeks. My boss said, ‘What happens if someone sues someone and you’re not here to handle the case?’”

The older woman said, “It was just coincidence I ended up back in Eugene. It was hard growing up there.”

“Why?” said Attorney.

“It was the late 40's. We didn’t have enough to eat. It was only steak and they cooked it to a cinder. It was that and potatoes or one brand of rice. I remember my mother and father loading us in the car and we’d drive to San Francisco to buy food.”

“To sell?” asked the attorney. The older woman looked at her.

“No. To eat.” She’s thinking in Italian, Mama Mia. What a crazy question.

The group talks about the bus, lodgings, expenses and border hassles. The girls are dead tired. They compare travel stories. One girl just completed a month teaching English in Burma. She found a job through a foreign woman running a tour company.

“Yes,” said the man, “there are people there who know The System. Where did you teach?”

“I didn’t teach school. I taught teachers.”

The man knows Burma. “I see. The authorities are very suspicious of foreigners. It’s difficult to really get to know the people.”

“I hoped to spend time with the Burmese in their home but it was forbidden,” said the girl.

I see the girl teaching a class of Burmese “teachers.” Half work for a government agency designed to acquire western educational pedagogical plans so they can push students through a looking glass into an alternate universe.

In the universe is a white rabbit saying I'm Late! I'm Late, a smoking caterpillar, Tweedle Dum and Tweedle Dee, tea parties, a grinning Cheshire cat and a fat Burmese female named Imperial Jade waving a jeweled sword yelling, Off With Their Heads!

The other teachers are the secret police.

Big Bother Brother runs the school. Into the ground, said the girl. Then she fell asleep. 

 

 

Book of Amnesia Unabridged

Monday
Jul132026

Feel Experience With Camera

How many tourists only see through their camera/cell phone? Millions.

According to Rita, They feel the experience of 8th century Angkor artistic splendor with their cold impersonal little tools. Their experience is defined by camera. Obscura.

It’s not about understanding the Khmer people, culture, food, art, music, and language. It’s about feeling with a camera. They are in a big fat hurry.

They’ve learned through hard fast lessons to trust the machine. It is their weapon against mediocrity and boredom and alienation and shallow emptiness. They don’t comprehend the intricacies outside the machine. They believe the machine will save them.

The machine controls them.


They accept this reality. They give up their consciousness.

They press optical machines tight against their faces, piercing retinas, flickering lids. Point and shoot. They lower the device and stare with hard lost eyes at the image of their transient memory. They judge it. Evaluate. Crimp. DELETE.

Shoot again  ... point  ... shoot  ... delete  ... repeat  ... a snapshot  ... snap a shot  ... preserve this moment forever  ...  Quick  ... they must go  ... to the next great big thing  ... they are in a hurry  ... Death is closer than white on rice.

The tuk-tuk driver is a happy man. He waits as they stuff eggs, watermelon and soft bread into tired bored faces. They eat like starving animals.

They run in, around and out of the temples.

They point shoot and delete.

 

 

Hurry. They have no time to see their obscurity. This loss and sense of amnesia envelops them. It accompanies them through electromagnetic radioactive meltdowns. It is a dark cloud of forgetting. They remember to forget.

They are on a Homeric quest of infinite grandeur and infinite magnitude.

Their memory card is full. They attach electrodes to a cerebral cortex and press the DownLoad switch. Memories of Apsara dancers, elephants, monkeys, temples and celestial deities flicker on a screen behind their eyes.

Avalokiteshvara, the Bodhisattva of compassion smiles. 

Book of Amnesia Unabridged

 

Friday
Jul032026

Angkor Wat by Rita

All Angkor Wat material is by Rita, fourteen, author of Ice Girl in Banlung. She is a resident tour guide and archaeological expert. Her food, transport and daily salary was paid by Dancing Mouse, a Khmer curator and art historian.

Angkor Wat – The City of Temples - is the largest spiritual building on Earth. It is a peaceful mixture of Hinduism and Buddhism. This makes it unique. It dates from the 9th - 13th century.

Most tourists dash in, around and through for 2-3 days of their very short existence. They get to Angkor Wat to see the sunrise with hoards. They climb steep stairs to see the sunset with hoards. It’s a human zoo.

 

 

They visit the high points: Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, the interior of Bayon and, depending on time and planning, other temples of interest. There are over 1,000 temples at Angkor. Most people hearing the word Angkor imagine only the main temple. There are plenty of cool uncrowded temples to enjoy.

A day pass costs $37, a 3-day pass is $70 and a seven-day pass $100. The longer pass allows visitors the luxury of time - life’s great wealth - to enjoy the diversity of Angkor over a month.

I suggest you visit The National Museum and galleries around town to learn about Angkor history in advance. Be aware that Thailand owns 50% of The National Museum. Khmer do not go to their museum.

For $25 I hired Pat, a tuk-tuk driver with three kids to feed. We left before dawn. A tuk-tuk is a motorcycle pulling a simple covered sofa carriage. The air was chilly and refreshing. We reached the main entrance. It resembled a well-designed airport immigration office with windows and attendants for the 1-3-7 day tickets. I paid for seven, they took my picture and a girl punched my ticket. Buy a ticket and take the ride. The meter began running.

We drove through deep mysterious forests on empty roads past forgotten shadows and villagers stoking cooking fires near wooden stilt homes. The road skirted a long deep reflecting pool at Sras Srang.

We stopped for a noodle breakfast. A brilliant orange ball of flaming gas rose over flat brown fields. I salute the sun!

 

 

We headed for Banteay Srei, 37 km from town. Objective: get there for early light with peace and quiet before buses of sheep.

Srei was built in 987 AD and never a royal temple. Small intimate and designed by women with delicate hands. The carvings of pink sandstone cover the temple. Reliefs are deep and beautiful, the most incredible at Angkor. Covered by forest and earth for centuries, it was discovered by a lost French madman.

After Srei we continued north to Kbal Spean. We climbed through forests for 1.5 km. This is the source of waters for Angkor and the Siem Reap River. Water flows over 100m of carved sacred lingams and Hindu deities, Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma.

The Sanskrit name is Sahasralinga, or “River of a Thousand Lingas.”

We headed southeast of Siem Reap to the Roluos Group, a series of three temples: Bakong, Preah Ko and Lolei, dating from the 8th-9th century.

Roluos is a pre-Angkor site.

Bakong was consecrated in 881 AD. The layout follows Mount Meru, with five ascending levels, moats, and ten surrounding temples. It was reconstructed from 1936-1942 under the direction of Maurice Glaize, the conservator of Angkor.

 

 

Preah Ko, or Parameswara, “The Supreme God,” or Shiva was built in 880 AD. It contains a stele in Sanskrit with an inscription about war, fearsome action in battle, flashing swords and invincibility - a eulogy to Indra Varman I.

Lolei, 893 AD. Four brick buildings in poor condition sit on an island above a former reservoir. The lintels, doors and inscriptions explaining the construction and divisions of tasks are well preserved.

Book of Amnesia Unabridged

 

Tuesday
Jun232026

Poetic Destiny by Coincidence

Coincidence is an event that might have been arranged although it was really accidental. It’s random destiny. Destiny is an event that will inevitably happen in the future like Death.

I was waiting for Christina, a 50-year-old Belgium born French teacher currently teaching at Peter Rabbit in Greenland for a day trip to a floating village and mangrove forest near Tonle Sap Lake. She’d suggested the idea the previous evening after seeing Angkor Wat.

 

Kun, the owner of Jasmine GH, walked to the table with a man. “He is going with you.”

Great.” We introduced ourselves, “Hi, I'm Brian,” he said.

“Nice to meet you.”

A soft-spoken man with piercing eyes, gentle manner and laughing, Brian told his family history.

“This is the short version of a long story. My grandfather’s father came from Switzerland. He was a preacher. He was persecuted and escaped to Italy. He returned and was beheaded. His son took up the cause and was also persecuted. He escaped to Holland. His family eventually moved to England, then Scotland then Ireland. During the potato famine they managed to get to New York and settled in Arkansas. It was the Civil War and life was hard. They moved west and eventually settled in Fresno, California where I was raised.”

We rolled through dry flat countryside to the end of a long dusty road. We jumped on motorcycles to reach small boats moored in shallow water. We left land gliding through marshes toward the Kampong Pluck Village. Christina asked Brian about his life.

“I am a poet traveling the world for a year on the Amy Lowell Traveling award.”

I turned in surprise. “What is your last name?”

“Turner.”

Mr. Brian Turner.

I laughed. “Sure. I know you. Last October when I lived in Hanoi with a family of bats in a palm tree I read your “Home Fires” essay in The New York Times after you visited the Bedlam hospital in London. I wrote a piece about becoming a ghost after returning from Vietnam. Your essay generated many comments from diverse voices, veterans, health care professionals and the general public. It was great.”

“It's important to give these people voices,” he said. "I wrote seven poetry books before submitting Here Bullet.”

Over lunch he talked about his book, Here Bullet published by Alice James Books. Brian served in Bosnia and a year tour in Iraq before returning to the states in 2004.

“I wrote the poems in Iraq. I worked from my notebooks to create the manuscript from November through March 2005. I submitted it. It won the Beatrice Hawley Award. Later, an anonymous person nominated me for the Amy Lowell award. There were 360 poetry books in the competition. One day I received a phone call from the law offices representing the estate. They said my book was selected for the Amy Lowell Scholarship. I was amazed.”

Brian received his MFA in writing from the University of Oregon, my alma matter.

“You’re a famous poet. Congratulations. And here we are, two writers, two veterans and UO graduates meeting on a small boat near a floating village in Cambodia. Long live the creative geniuses.”

Brian reached Cambodia via England, Switzerland, Italy, Turkey and Thailand. He’d travel to Vietnam, Morocco, Portugal, Ireland and Bosnia.

His second book of poetry, entitled Phantom Noise, was published in April 2010 and shortlisted for the T.S. Elliot Prize.

The three us shared stories, explored a village, a local primary school, enjoyed seafood along the river and traversed the amazing mangrove water world forest, ala Monet.

Joyful destiny smiled.

Book of Amnesia Unabridged

Tuesday
Jun162026

One Born & One Dies

One death. One birth. This happened in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Jasmine gave birth to a baby boy at 12:30 a.m. 3.9 kilos. It’s her and Kun’s third child.

I am on the balcony at 6 a.m. hearing him cry. Tears and lungs, breath, release. Sleeping after his nine-month water world journey. Every day is a celebration.

I walk a dusty path and across the Highway of Death to Jasmine Lodge. People gather to celebrate the passing of Jasmine’s grandmother. She slipped away during the night after eighty-four years.

She was healthy and happy.

Friends and relatives gather under a pavilion to pay their respects. They visit the frail Buddhist monk with a monetary gift. He ties a red piece of yarn around their wrist.

The ceremony lasts three days. Women teams prepare vats of soup releasing vapors. Grilled meat and fish aromas curl through bamboo meeting music and the melodic chants of singing, chanting monks.

Tomorrow is a procession to the pagoda for her cremation.

Led by six monks in orange robes 200 people followed the rolling wagon carrying the wooden casket in blazing heat along The Highway of Death. After two kilometers we entered the pagoda.

A bus of kids and nuns arrived.

  

 

Her casket was carried up the stairs and placed on a metal platform. Her husband led a procession of monks and family members around the tall tapered white and blue building carrying her picture and yellow flowers. They stepped back to allow attendants access. They opened the casket so family members could leave something personal inside.

On a pavilion monks chanted. A man read a final tribute about her life. The family expressed their love. Men put small logs into the casket. They closed it, rolled it inside and piled more wood around it. They lit the fire and closed the metal door.

People sat silent, whispering, drinking water. They observed the top of the tower with four serene Buddha faces and exhaust pipes. A wisp of black smoke escaped into clear blue sky followed by heavier billowing gray and white snow.

Everything burned for three hours.

Her bones were collected, placed in a family urn and returned to her room. They created a human figure on banana leaves. After 100 days her bones will rest in a family stupa at the pagoda.

Book of Amnesia Unabridged